In a small jar or bowl, mix 50g active starter with 50g bread flour and 50g warm water until no dry flour remains.

Cover loosely and leave at room temperature (70-75°F / 21-24°C) for 8-12 hours until doubled and bubbly.

In a stand mixer bowl, add the flour, warm water, ripe levain, salt, and barley malt syrup.

Using the dough hook, mix on low speed for 2-3 minutes until a shaggy dough forms.

Increase to medium speed and knead for 10-12 minutes. The dough should become smooth, very stiff, and pull away from the bowl sides.

Pinch off a small piece and stretch it thin. It should stretch without tearing (windowpane test). If it tears easily, knead another 2-3 minutes.

If mixing by hand, combine ingredients in a large bowl, then turn out onto an unfloured surface and knead vigorously for 15-20 minutes. This is a workout.

Form the dough into a tight ball and place in a lightly oiled bowl.

Cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel.

Let rest at room temperature (70-75°F / 21-24°C) for 3-4 hours. The dough should increase by about 25-50%, not double.

The dough should feel slightly puffy but not airy. If you poke it, it should slowly spring back.

Gently turn the dough onto an unfloured work surface.

Using a bench scraper and scale, divide into 8 equal pieces (about 120g each).

Working with one piece at a time, cup your hand over the dough and move in tight circles on the counter to form a taut ball. The friction should pull the surface tight.

Cover the balls with a damp towel and let rest 5 minutes. This relaxes the gluten for easier shaping.

Place shaped bagels on a parchment-lined baking sheet, spaced 2 inches apart.

Cover loosely with plastic wrap.

Place the covered baking sheet in the refrigerator.

Leave for 12-24 hours. Longer gives more sour flavor.

Take bagels out of the refrigerator.

Fill a small bowl with room temperature water. Gently drop one bagel in. If it floats within 10 seconds, they're ready. If it sinks, let them rest at room temperature for 20-30 minutes and test again.

Heat your oven to 450°F (230°C) with a rack in the center position.

Fill a large pot with 4 quarts of water. Add barley malt syrup and baking soda. Bring to a rolling boil.

Place your chosen toppings in shallow bowls or plates near the stove.

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Working with 2-3 bagels at a time (don't crowd), gently lower them into the boiling water.

Boil for 30-60 seconds per side. Shorter boil = lighter crust. Longer boil = chewier, denser bagel.

Use a slotted spoon to flip each bagel.

Lift bagels out with the slotted spoon, letting excess water drip off for a few seconds.

While still wet, dip the top of each bagel into your chosen toppings. The wet surface acts as glue.

Place topped bagels on the prepared baking sheets, topping side up.

Continue with remaining bagels.

Place bagels in the preheated 450°F (230°C) oven.

After 10-12 minutes, rotate the pan 180 degrees for even browning.

Bagels are done when deep golden brown all over, 20-25 minutes total. The internal temperature should reach 200-205°F (93-96°C).

Transfer immediately to a wire cooling rack. Let cool at least 15 minutes before slicing.

Take a dough ball and poke your thumb through the center.

Using both index fingers, gently stretch the hole to about 2 inches wide. It will shrink during proofing and baking.

Work around the ring, stretching gently to make the bagel even in thickness.

The hole shrinks significantly during proofing and baking, so err on the larger side.

Roll a dough ball into a rope about 9-10 inches long, slightly tapered at the ends.

Wrap the rope around your palm so the ends overlap by about 1.5 inches.

Roll the overlapped section back and forth on the counter to seal completely.

Gently stretch to even out if needed.

Preheat to 450°F (230°C) with rack in center position.

Place boiled bagels on parchment-lined sheets, topping side up.

Bake 20-25 minutes, rotating pan halfway through.

Bagels should be deep golden brown all over.

Preheat to 425°F (220°C).

Bake 18-22 minutes, watching carefully as convection browns faster.

Check early—convection can brown unevenly.